The nuns who lied to a bishop (and got away with it)


Picture Palermo, year 1143.

A convent. A bishop on his way for an important visit. And a garden that picked the worst possible moment to be completely, embarrassingly bare.

No flowers. No fruit. Just naked branches in the middle of autumn, looking like they owed someone money.

Now, the nuns of the Martorana monastery had two options.

Option one: apologize, blush, blame the weather.

Option two: commit a delicious act of fraud.

They went with option two.

Out came the almond paste. They shaped it into peaches, lemons, figs, prickly pears. They painted each one by hand until it looked sun-ripe and ready to eat. Then they hung their little forgeries on the bare branches and waited.

The bishop arrived. He saw a garden bursting with fruit in November. He could not tell the difference between what God grew and what the nuns invented.

That is the kind of skill you only get from people who take their craft a little too seriously. The good kind of too seriously.

Today those fake fruits have a name: frutta martorana. Sicilians still make them by hand, still trick the eye, still taste like almonds and centuries.

And here is the part nobody tells you.

You do not need Sicilian blood to feel the pull of a place where nuns out-arted a bishop with sugar. You just need to be paying attention.

Speaking of paying attention.

I'm writing this from Turin, where I'm spending the summer, and I gave my northern friends some frutta martorana as a gift (check picture below).

And while I am up here an idea keeps following me around.

I am thinking of building an experience for the people who come to visit Sicily. A real one. You, your hands, a block of almond paste, and a Sicilian who refuses to let you do it the easy way. By the end you walk out holding a piece of fruit so convincing you could fool a bishop yourself.

But I am not sold yet. I keep going back and forth.

So I am asking you, plainly. Would you want that? Should I build it?

Your opinion actually counts here, so hit reply and tell me.

A presto,
la Capitana

Fabiana Stringa

I don’t design trips. I design transformations, for people who want to stop being tourists in Italy and start belonging there. Language, culture, identity, woven into one.

Read more from Fabiana Stringa

I was in the supermarket last week, somewhere between the rice and the canned tomatoes. A man with a beard the size of a small forest stared back at me from a can of black beans. Bud Spencer. If you grew up anywhere near a television in the seventies, you know the face. Big hands. Slow walk. One flat punch on top of somebody's head and the fight was over. His real name was Carlo Pedersoli. Before the movies he was a swimmer, the first Italian to cover 100 meters freestyle in under a minute....

A few days ago I walked twice into the National Automobile Museum in Torino and lost six hours of my life. Zero regrets. Rows of cars lit like paintings. A Formula 1 car sitting at eye level, close enough that I could see the scratches on the nose cone. And there, smaller than you'd expect, a Vespa. The scooter that put a bankrupt postwar country back on two wheels because a plane engineer named Corradino D'Ascanio hated motorcycles and designed something a woman in a skirt could actually...

For a hundred years, the world had one dream with a passport. Arrive in America with nothing. Build everything. I think that dream has quietly retired. No farewell party, no gold watch. It just stopped showing up to work. And while everyone was looking west, something older kept humming in the background. In Turin, an entire hub of designers and makers is reinventing what a factory even means. The city that built cars for the world now builds ideas with the same hands. In Cremona, violin...