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I was in the supermarket last week, somewhere between the rice and the canned tomatoes. A man with a beard the size of a small forest stared back at me from a can of black beans. Bud Spencer. If you grew up anywhere near a television in the seventies, you know the face. Big hands. Slow walk. One flat punch on top of somebody's head and the fight was over. His real name was Carlo Pedersoli. Before the movies he was a swimmer, the first Italian to cover 100 meters freestyle in under a minute. Then he traded the pool for a horse and started eating beans on camera. Enormous pans of them. That is why his face is now on my groceries. And here is the part I keep thinking about. Those movies had a sound. Close your eyes and you already hear it. The whistle. The coyote howl. The electric guitar that has no business being in 1870 and somehow belongs there completely. That was Ennio Morricone. He and Sergio Leone sat in the same elementary school classroom in Rome and had no idea, until they met again as grown men and went off to invent the Western the Americans had stopped making properly. We tell the world that Italian music means opera. Pavarotti, Verdi, a tenor holding a note until the chandelier shakes. Then a boy from Trastevere put a human voice, a jaw harp and a trumpet together and gave the desert its soundtrack. Same country. Same instinct for melody. Different century, different sand. Language lives in the ear long before it lives in the grammar table. Pronunciation is not a rule you memorize. It is a sound you copy. In my Belonging in Italy program, this is where I put most of my attention. Not vocabulary lists. The actual sound of the language: where the stress falls, how the vowels stay open, why "cane" and "canne" are two different words if you say them right. And a song teaches that faster than any drill I could write. Now, a question. Do you sing? In the shower, in the car, badly, only when nobody is home. Hit reply and tell me. A presto, |
I don’t design trips. I design transformations, for people who want to stop being tourists in Italy and start belonging there. Language, culture, identity, woven into one.
A few days ago I walked twice into the National Automobile Museum in Torino and lost six hours of my life. Zero regrets. Rows of cars lit like paintings. A Formula 1 car sitting at eye level, close enough that I could see the scratches on the nose cone. And there, smaller than you'd expect, a Vespa. The scooter that put a bankrupt postwar country back on two wheels because a plane engineer named Corradino D'Ascanio hated motorcycles and designed something a woman in a skirt could actually...
For a hundred years, the world had one dream with a passport. Arrive in America with nothing. Build everything. I think that dream has quietly retired. No farewell party, no gold watch. It just stopped showing up to work. And while everyone was looking west, something older kept humming in the background. In Turin, an entire hub of designers and makers is reinventing what a factory even means. The city that built cars for the world now builds ideas with the same hands. In Cremona, violin...
There was a line on my report card once. Something about not applying myself. Twenty five years later, I finally understand what that line actually meant. It meant I was bored. Here is what nobody warned me I would find in this job. The people who struggled most in school walk into my courses and turn out to be the sharpest people in the room. The most curious. The ones who ask the question the textbook never anticipated. Twelve years. The pattern has never once broken. Which makes me wonder...